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Mice & Rats

Mice are common in all parts of Canada. They can range in color from dusky grey to tan or brown, and measure overall from 2.5 to 4” long with large ears and long tails. Deer mice are 4 to 9” long, reddish-brown in colour with a white chest, white feet and a bi-coloured tail (brown on top/white on the bottom).


Rats are medium-sized, long-tailed rodents. Rats are typically distinguished from mice by their size as their features are very similar. 

Multiple Catch Mouse Trap
$39.95
Mouse Trap -12pk
$21.95
Live Animal Trap - 1079
$99.95
T-Rex Rat Traps - 4pk
$54.95
Squirrel Trap - 0745
$79.95
Jawz Mouse Trap - 4pk
$27.95
Disposable Rat Trap
$24.95

Mice & Rat Facts

Apperance

Mice are common in all parts of Canada. They can range in color from dusky grey to tan or brown, and measure overall from 2.5 to 4” long with large ears and long tails. Deer mice are 4 to 9” long, reddish-brown in colour with a white chest, white feet and a bi-coloured tail (brown on top/white on the bottom).


Development

The average life span of a mouse is 18 months. A single female may have as many as eight litters per year, averaging five to six young each. Mice can survive outdoors during the winter under certain conditions, but generally invade buildings when the weather turns cold, to seek both food and shelter. Mice are year round pests. Activity and indoor migration increases as weather get cooler. Deer mice naturally inhabit rural & semi-rural locations, in areas such as fields, pastures & various types of vegetation found around homes & outbuildings. Generally, mice commonly invade garages, attics, sheds, wood piles, crawl spaces, as well as general living quarters of homes. Their ground nests are established in hollow trees, building voids and spaces, unused equipment, cabinet voids, along the sill plate in basements and crawl spaces, log piles, unused furniture, fence posts, and old bird and squirrel nests.


Damage Caused by Mice

Mice can do extensive damage to houses, granaries, restaurants, bakeries – any place food is handled or stored. They will gnaw through wood to gain entrance into buildings. In constructing their nests, mice will destroy fabrics and leather goods, and can cause fires by chewing through the insulation on electrical wires. Mice can also contaminate food with their droppings and urine. Deer mice also present the possibility of introducing Hantavirus through their droppings. They spread such disease as salmonella bacteria (food poisoning) leptospirea (jaundice) and typhus. As well, they carry parasites such as fleas, roundworms and mites. A bite inflicted a mouse should receive prompt medical attention. The droppings from deer mice, also pose a risk for Hantavirus.

Mice Treatments

Mice and RatsTreatment to Residential House:

A common treatment for mice and rats is to carry out rodenticidal baiting treatment. Carry out an inspection inside the house to locate where the mice are frequenting. Upon determining this, place out poison bait in the areas of activity. This bait is placed in tamper proof stations to ensure that pets and children cannot access the bait. Also carry out a complete inspection of the premises for all potential mouse entry points. Locate these areas and its recommended that they should be sealed.

DIY - Do It Yourself Tips

Prevention of Mice and Rats

Since the contributing factor to a rodent infestation is the presence of food, good housekeeping is essential. This includes the proper storage of foods in sealed jars or tins. In addition all refuse should be stored in containers with tight fitting lids. Seal all openings to the outside, especially those around doors and windows, such as cracks or faulty weather stripping. Improperly installed garage doors, and openings around pipes and electrical wiring also provide entry into a residence for mice. All potential entry points inside should be properly sealed, as well. These include cracks in corners of cupboards, improperly fitted baseboards, openings around pipes and air vents. Generally, using steel wool or a caulking compound to close off access points is sufficient.

Control of Mice and Rats

A common treatment for mice and rats is to carry out rodenticidal baiting treatment. Carry out an inspection inside the house to locate where the mice are frequenting. Upon determining this, place out poison bait in the areas of activity. This bait is placed in tamper proof stations to ensure that pets and children cannot access the bait. Also carry out a complete inspection of the premises for all potential mouse entry points. Locate these areas and its recommended that they should be sealed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Do mice travel under snow?

A: Yes


Q: Can mice climb?

A: Yes, they can climb. They have been known to climb to get into dryer vents and even attics. 


Q: Will the mice hibernate in snow?

A: Mice don’t hibernate 

 

Q: How fast do they multiply?

A: Mouse can breed every 3 weeks with 1 to 10 young so extremely fast!  


Q: I have cat and dog, but still mice are in my house I don’t know why.

A: Even though these are viewed by mice as predators the mice will enter the home in search of warmth, shelter, food etc. and will attempt to avoid predators internally just as they do externally.  


Q: Are the bait attractive to mice?

A: Indirectly yes, but if the home has lots of other food or open garbage, the mice will go for this instead of the bait, so sanitation is an integral part of mice control. 

 

Q: Does the bait have special odour to attract mice?

A: yes to mice, barely noticeable by human  


Q: If my mice problem is gone in future, should I discard all the poison bait stations? Are guys coming back to pick them up?

A: No, we do not go back to pick up the bait stations, as it will against the purpose of controlling the mice. Client can just keep the bait station, especially the external large bait station, and make sure they will be re-baited twice per year.  


Q: Isn’t it better to catch mice alive by using live trap rather than having poison inside the house?

A: Mice will learn to avoid the live and snap traps after some time so poison is preferable. For trap, you have to monitor them on a regular basis, otherwise, if the mouse was trapped, it will become smelly and rotted. For the bait stations, they will be more ECO friendly.  


Q: How do you clean up mice droppings?

A: It is recommended that professionals clean up droppings as they can potentially carry viruses. If you are going to clean them yourself, DO NOT vacuum or sweep the droppings as this can cause them to become airborne. 


Q: I only noticed a few droppings under the kitchen sink, how can I clean it up by myself?

A: For a small area, (such as only noticed a few dropping in small area, they can clean up with a 10% bleach solution, and exercise caution by using gloves, a mask and eye protection.  


Q: Can you tell if you have deer mice by the droppings?

A: Mice droppings aren’t good enough to determine the species. We recommend treating all mouse droppings with caution. Never sweep or vacuum droppings as this can cause them to become airborne. 

 

Q: How do I know if it’s deer mouse

A: Deer mice have a white underbelly, regular field mice and voles do not. Deer mice have been trapped in Edmonton homes and out buildings; however they are most common in rural areas.  


Q: Do all deer mice carry the Virus?

A: No, a study in Edmonton areas recently showed that only 4 out of 150 trapped deer mice carried out the Hantavirus. However, to be on the safe side, people should assume all the mice and their droppings/urine are infectious.  


Q: What is Hantavirus?

A: Hantavirus is a disease carried out by deer mice that can spread from mouse, its droppings and urine. It cannot be transmitted from human to human, only from deer mice to human.

  

Q: Can I use expanding foam to keep mice out?

A: This may work temporarily but we do not recommend using it as the mice can chew through it and re-gain access  


Q: Can I seal the entry points by myself? What would be common materials to seal the entry points?

A: yes, if they are small gaps, cracks, then you can try to seal them by yourselves. If it is an older house with lots of entry points, it might be not worth it and it will be difficult and costly to seal all the entry points; it will be better to use more external large bait stations to reduce the exterior population, therefore it will reduce their chance to getting into homes. Depending on the type of entry points, you can choose to use silicone, steel wool, weather stripping, vent screen etc. For these materials, you can buy them from Home-Depot, Rona, and Canadian Tire etc.  


Q: How long is mice bait good for?

A: The bait is good for 3 month, but active for one year. We recommend replacing the bait ideally every 3 months, as the bait loses its potency. At minimum, the rebaiting should be done twice per year, every spring and every fall.


Q: What if by accident, my dog/cat eats a mouse that has been poisoned?

A: The likelihood of secondary poisoning is very low. For the pet to be effected, they would need to eat more than their body weight in mice. (Or the risk of secondary poisoning is negligible, as the pet would need to eat more than their body weight in mice for them to become sick) 


Q: Where will the mice go after feeding on poisoned bait? Are they going die inside of bait stations?

A: Mice rarely die inside of bait stations. Mice has tendency to hoarder food in their, they tend to take a small bite of bait, and carry it back their nests. Most of time, they will consume the bait in their nest. Once they consumed the right amount; the poison bait will make them ill and eventually die. The poison bait will de-hydrate their dead bodies, so that it will not become smelly or rotted.  


Q: What if the mice die inside my house?

A: If they do, the poison has a product in it that dries up the mouse so that it doesn’t rot. If you have a smell, the mouse died of natural causes.  


Q: What happens if mice die in my walls?

A: Since they are in a sealed area, the likelihood of them transmitting any disease is very remote. If they have died of natural causes they will most likely rot and cause an odor. If they have died through poison, they will dry up and not have any odor.  


Q: How would I know that they are gone after treatment?

A: Most often you no longer have droppings and urine of the mice and there is no longer food and other products being chewed 


Q: How will I know that mice eat the poison bait? 

A: You will notice the greenish/blue color dropping (color of our bait). 

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